Reading Product Labels- Skincare

Product Labels- What you need to know

False claims

What misleading claims companies use to trick you into believing you are supporting a cause you might not be.

Marketing promises regarding the origin, safety, and efficacy of personal care products and their contents frequently don’t live up to the labels. Due to the numerous claims made on product packaging, consumers are frequently kept in the dark regarding the true contents of their purchases. Knowledge is power- learning to read labels is the only way to protect yourself because you simply cannot trust ‘badges’ and label claims. Let’s look at the main false claims that we see on product labels;

ORGANIC

Labelling something as organic can mean as little as 1% of ingredients in the product are organic, this is why we specify what ingredients we use that are organic rather than labeling products with the blanket ‘organic’ term. Even the regulations for being able to name something organic is somewhat ‘grey’ and can be manipulated.

NATURAL

When it comes to the cosmetics sector, there is currently no legal definition of the term ‘natural.’ In light of this, a product that says ‘natural’ on the label may not even include any plant-derived ingredients. Even the regulation around labelling anything organic are somewhat ‘grey’ and subject to manipulation.

CRUELTY-FREE

The term ‘cruelty-free’ is meant to imply that the product itself has not been tested on animals; this is typically promoted by companies who identify themselves as being cruelty-free, but how far must one go to qualify as such? The reality is that many parent corporations have brands that do in fact test on animals, encouraging people to falsely support business that isn’t entirely cruelty-free.

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT YOUR INGREDIENT LIST?

Companies are required to use the full chemical or botanical name of ingredients on their product labels so it can at times be confusing to differentiate between synthetic and plant-derived ingredients, if in doubt- give it a quick google. Remember that product labels are also required to have ingredients listed in order of volume, so the 1st ingredient makes up the greatest content and the last item the lowest content.

Ingredients

What nasties you may want to look out for when looking at ingredient labels on your skin, hair or household products.

FRAGRANCE

Should we really be so afraid of this ingredient? How can we actually know what is contained when this item is listed?

The term ‘fragrance’ is very ambiguous and can refer to any number of chemicals, of which there are thousands. A single smell could be made up of between 50 and 300 different compounds. Since they are considered ‘trade secrets,’ anything could be hiding inside.

Products with fragrances have been linked to a variety of negative health consequences, including contact dermatitis, migraines, asthma attacks, cancer and respiratory, reproductive, hormonal and neurological issues.

In this study of 140 products, ‘fragrance’ accounted for 75 percent of the hazardous compounds found and a great deal of these products were skincare, marketed for daily use. 

Perhaps more regulations will be introduced in the future to protect consumers from these dangerous compounds, but for the time being, it’s best to stay away from fragrances altogether. This may mean a sacrifice in the ‘scent’ department because natural alternatives don’t exactly compete favourably at safe-to-use levels.

Find fragrance on your ingredient list; Fragrance, Parfum.

PARABENS

Commonly used as a preservative, between 75% and 90% of cosmetic products are thought to contain parabens.

The skin is easily penetrated by parabens and studies have shown that methylparaben applied to the skin reacts with UVB (the rays responsible for sunburn), speeding up DNA damage and skin ageing. Not so great for skincare.

Studies have shown that parabens can disrupt hormone function, may harm male reproductive processes and can mimic oestrogen which could trigger the growth of tumors or cancer.

It’s a bit unknown for now but we have easy access to natural preservatives that do a great job without the risk so why take it?

Find parabens on your ingredient list; Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, and Ethylparaben

PHTHALATES

The first phthalates were created to make plastics more flexible and stable. They are often found in personal care products, especially in nail products and eyelash glue but also as a preservative, to help maintain colour and fragrance, as a gelling agent or lubricant in many personal care products.

Exposure to phthalates has been linked to endocrine disruption, male infertility and lower sperm count and risk of miscarriage. They can also cause cause eczema, asthma, ADHD, reduced IQ, malformations in male genitalia, allergies, and obesity.

As usual more studies need to be done to change regulations around phthalate use so look out for phthalates on your ingredient labels.

Find phthalates on your ingredient list; DBP (dibutyl phthalate), DNOP (di-n-octyl phthalate), DiNP (diisononyl phthalate), DEP (diethyl phthalate), BBzP (benzyl butyl phthalate), DEHP (di 2-ethylhexl phthalate), DiDP (diisodecyl phthalate), DnHP (di-n-hexyl phthalate)

FORMALDEHYDE

Formaldehyde is chemical molecule comprised of hydrogen, oxygen, and carbon and is one of the most regulated and well known chemicals.

The human body naturally contains formaldehyde, which the body’s own metabolic processes swiftly break down. According to studies, formaldehyde does not build up inside the body and is found in plants, fish, animals, and many foods.

It is used in a wide variety of products such as building products, adhesives, insulation materials, fertilizers and pesticides, permanent-press fabrics, paints and coatings, paper products and in the embalming process. It is also used in preservatives in some medicines, cosmetics and household cleaning products.

Numerous studies have shown that formaldehyde produces allergic skin reactions and skin rashes in addition to short-term health effects such eye, nose, and throat irritation. The National Toxicology Program and the International Agency for Research on Cancer both designate formaldehyde as a recognised carcinogen.

The main concern is when formaldehyde fumes are inhaled; this typically occurs while using nail polish, chemical straighteners, or when utilising heat to cause the release of formaldehyde into the air from goods containing the chemical. Although gas is not the only issue people can also have reactions to formaldehyde as it can cause skin irritations such as redness, itching, inflammation and blisters.

Although inhalation is the most harmful way to expose yourself to formaldehyde, people might experience skin irritations like redness, itching, inflammation, and blisters from skincare containing formaldehyde.

Find formaldehyde on your ingredient list; Quaternium-15, DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Aiazolidinyl Urea, Polyoxymethylene Urea, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, Bromopol and Glyoxal.

BHA & BHT (Butylated Hydroxyanisole & Butylated Hydroxytoluene)

BHA & BHT are employed as antioxidents and preservatives in personal care products and also in food.

Connected to a variety of health issues, such as skin rashes, organ system toxicity, and more. BHA is categorised as “reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen” by the National Toxicology Program. Additionally, BHA has been classified as a Category 1 endocrine disruptor by the European Commission on Endocrine Disruption. BHA is included on California’s Proposition 65 list as a potential carcinogen and has been connected to reproductive and developmental harm.

Find BHA & BHT on your ingredient list; Butylated Hydroxyanisole & Butylated Hydroxytoluene

MINERAL OILS

Mineral oil is petroleum-derived and refined as a transparent, odourless liquid. It is used for it’s humectant and moisture-locking properties in a variety of hair and skin products. According to current regulations, because of how highly refined it is, mineral oil has been deemed ‘safe’ for use in beauty and cosmetic products.

Despite not being identical to or as harmful as unprocessed carcinogenic mineral oil, the mineral oil used in the beauty industry still comes from a non-renewable resource that harms the environment—carcinogenic crude oil. The production of oil and gas involves a wide range of activities, from exploration through refining, as well as the generation of wastewater, gas emissions, solid waste, and aerosols during drilling, production, refining, and transportation.

Plant-based oils have many of the same uses as mineral oils and a number of additional qualities that mineral oils lack. There is debate about whether mineral oil clogs pores whereas many plant-based oils allow the skin to breathe and perform normally while also supplying hydration and avoiding moisture loss.

Find Mineral Oil on your ingredient list; Mineral Oil, Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Cera Microcristallina, Microcrystalline Wax, Ozokerite, Ceresine Isoparaffin Paraffin, Paraffin, Synthetic Wax.

PEGs (Polyethylene Glycol)

A class of petroleum-based substances known as polythene glycols are often employed as thickeners, solvents, softeners, and moisture-carriers in many household and personal care products.

Although usually regarded as safe, PEGs may be contaminated with detectable levels of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane (both known or suspected carcinogens) depending on the manufacturing techniques. It has also been determined that some PEG compounds are not suitable on damaged skin and as it is a ‘penetration enhancer’, it allows for higher absorption of the product and any harmful ingredients it may be carrying.

There are many natural alternatives to replace the job PEGs do in personal care products, of course these tend to come at a higher price-tag which is why natural products can be more expensive.

Find PEGs in your ingredient list; They are often listed as PEG, followed by a number and sometimes a number and then another ingredient name. E.g. PEG (Polyethylene Glycol), PPG (Polypropylene Glycol), PEG-40, PEG-20 Stearate.

SULPHATES

Sulphates lather well and act as detergents or surfactants in personal care products and are found mostly in shampoos, body wash and household cleaning products. Surfactants work by breaking down oil by breaking the surface tension between the oil and the water so it can be washed away.

Sulphates are a contentious ingredient with some claiming it’s a necessary ingredient for ‘getting the job done’ and others that have concerns as it can deplete your hair and scalp of its natural oils, causing dryness and irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin.

There are a tonne of ‘sulphate-free’ choices available, which are promoted as being kinder to your hair and scalp and these are found to have varying degrees of success.

Keep in mind that sulphates and silicones go together, meaning that because silicones are so sticky, a sulphate must be used to remove them from your hair. As a result, if you get rid of sulphates, you should also get rid of silicones because sulphate-free alternatives might not be up to par.

Find sulphates on your ingredient list; Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate.

SILICONES

By synthesising silicon with oxygen and other elements like carbon and hydrogen, silicones are created. In nature, silicon is rarely found in a pure condition because it easily combines with oxygen. Instead, it is typically found as silicon dioxide or silica. Quartz contains large amounts of silica (sand). And it turns out that silicones are usually made from sand.

Silicones are utilised in hair care products to condition, frizz control, shine, heat and colour protection. They increase skin’s hydration and brightness as well as soften and revitalised appearance. Additionally, they enhance the skin compositions’ spreadability and water resistance.

Your hair may accumulate silicone over time, giving it a dull appearance and a dry feel. Even your hair may start to weaken and become more prone to breaking. Additionally, it can be very challenging to remove silicone with a standard wash if you’re using a kind of silicone that isn’t water-soluble.

Find silicones on your ingredient list; Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl Methicone, Cyclopentasiloxane.

DEA, TEA, MEA & Others (Diethanolamine, Triethanolamine, Monoethanolamine)

The two primary types of ethanolamines—a chemical class made composed of alcohols and amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins—are diethanolamine (DEA) and triethanolamine (TEA). They are utilised in a variety of products, such as cosmetics, personal care items and also in many household products.

Diethanolamine and its derivatives are used to add creaminess or suds to cosmetic products or as an emulsifier, pH adjuster and fragrance. DEA also functions as a pH adjuster to balance out other compounds’ acidity. While cocamide and lauramide DEA can be found in soaps, cleansers, and shampoos, DEA is mostly found in moisturisers and sunscreens.

Nitrosamines can arise when ethanolamines are combined with certain preservatives that decompose into nitrogen in a product.  DEA may combine with other compounds in cosmetic formulations to create the carcinogen nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), which is absorbed via the skin.

The National Toxicology Program’s Report on Carcinogens lists nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA) as a known carcinogen. According to experimental research, NDEA induces liver and kidney cancers in rats, kidney cancer in hamsters, and nasal cavity cancer in rats. In female mice, TEA and DEA have been proven to be hepatocarcinogenic (creating or leading to induce liver cancer).

According to studies, following exposure, the upper layers of skin still contain 52 to 68 percent of the DEA found in hair dyes, body lotions, and shampoos. DEA has an impact on men’s reproductive health, it builds up in the liver and kidney, toxicating those organs as well as possibly having neurological consequences. Another study contends that mothers’ exposure to DEA may have long-term effects on the brain development and memory function of their children.

Find these on your ingredient list; Monoethanolamine MEA, Triethanolamine TEA, Diethanolamine DEA, Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, DEA-Cetyl Phosphate, DEA Oleth-3 Phosphate, Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide MEA, Myristamide DEA, Oleamide DEA, Stearamide MEA, TEA-Lauryl Sulfate.

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